"Fashion is nonpolitical and nonpartisan," Oscar de la Renta once famously said. With a career spanning over six decades at the helm of the Dominican fashion house, the late fashion designer became synonymous with dressing the First Ladies of America. Oscar de la Renta continues to dress the American government today, and sparked controversy in recent weeks with its affiliation to the Republicans through styling Ivanka Trump and Usha Vance.
Oscar de la Renta was synonymous with styling the First Ladies of the United States
The designer left his home in Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic, at the age of 18 and attended the San Fernando Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Madrid, Spain. Following a stint as an illustrator for fashion labels, Oscar de la Renta was taken under the wing of Spanish fashion designers Cristóbal Balenciaga and Antonio Castillo.
Hillary Clinton with designer Oscar De La Renta arriving at the 2002 CFDA Fashion Awards
In the mid-1960s, the eponymous label punctuated the halls of the White House with polished Spanish tailoring and a certain luxurious European elegance. The designer, who died in October 2014, created garments for the likes of Nancy Reagan, Hillary Clinton, and Laura Bush. However, Oscar de la Renta's love affair with the United States government began back with his first muse, Jackie Kennedy, in 1962.
Jackie Kennedy
The fashion designer crafted a custom peach dress for former President John F. Kennedy’s wife for a state visit to India in 1962. The silky garment featured a sleek v-neckline and was adorned with a large bow on the bodice. The former First Lady paired the bold dress with her signature stack of pearl necklaces and a pair of long-sleeved white gloves. The garment kicked off a steadfast relationship between the designer and America's most coveted First Lady as Jackie often donned the fashion house for state dinners and inaugural parades.
Following in her precursor's footsteps, Nancy Reagan formed a close friendship with the Dominican designer. Oscar de la Renta helped curate Nancy's iconic "Reagan Red" approach to fashion as she famously donned a long intricately laced gown in a bold rogue for the 1988 president's dinner, which saw Ronal Regan endorse George H. W. Bush candidacy for president. The frock featured an elegant v-neckline and puffed, Cinderella-style shoulders. Nancy also opted for an unforgettable satin scarlet ballgown courtesy of the designer for a state dinner in 1987.
Upon the news of Oscar de la Renta's death in 2014, aged 82, Ronald Reagan's wife said: “America has lost a brilliant, enduring talent and a true gentleman. Oscar was a fashion legend but he was also my friend for nearly 50 years."
In the '90s, Oscar de la Renta's blueprint transitioned from understated romance to a style capturing the glitz and glamor of the United States. Hillary Clinton often sported the designer's floor-length ballgowns, and most notably donned a gold frock to President Bill Clinton's 1997 inaugural ball. The former President's wife continued to wear the designer in the years following and opted for a dark teal gown for the 2002 Council of Fashion Designers of America gala. The garment was crafted from silk and featured billowing princess-inspired sleeves.
Hillary embodied the new-founded boldness of Oscar de la Renta for Nelson Mandela’s 85th birthday celebration in Johannesburg. The former First Lady donned a voluminous gold gown embossed with leopard print for the occasion.
In an interview with the New York Times in 2002, the designer reflected on his work with President Bill Clinton's wife. "Hillary Clinton was more difficult. Remember, she was coming from Arkansas. Mrs. Reagan was a movie star, and she knew how to dress, but Mrs. Clinton [is] very prudish. She has lovely shoulders and a very nice décolleté. Before I die, I’m going to get her in a strapless dress."
Hillary may have not been a fan of flashing her décolletage, but she did indulge in the refinement and quilting of the label's stylish suits.
As an avid lover of the label, Laura Bush would often visit Oscar de la Renta's Seventh Avenue atelier to browse the new collections. President George Bush's wife donned a white coat embellished with intricate beads to the 2005 inauguration parade. The gorgeous tailored garment was the perfect winter number with the shimmering pearls appearing as dainty snowflakes.
Staying true to her love for sparkle, Laura also wore a long-sleeved, dove-grey gown to the Stars and Stripes Ball. The detailed garment featured a mesh lining embellished with intricate silver jewels.
The Bush family even launched the "Oscar de la Renta: Five Decades of Style" exhibition at the Presidential Centre in Dallas, Texas, in 2014.
Following the designer's death, Laura said: “My daughters and I have many fond memories of visits with Oscar, who designed our favorite clothes, including Jenna’s wedding dress. We will always remember him as the man who made women look and feel beautiful.”
The designer publicly criticized Michelle Obama as the only First Lady in modern history to not wear his designs. Oscar de la Renta said Michelle's favoring of contemporary labels like Michael Kors, J. Crew, and Jason Wu was "not supporting American fashion".
When the First Lady opted for an Alexander McQueen gown for a state dinner in 2015 for Chinese President Hu Jinta, the Dominican designer was not best pleased. Speaking with WWD, he said: "My understanding is that the visit was to promote American-Chinese trade — American products in China and Chinese products in America. Why do you wear European clothes?."
However, after seven years in her role, Michelle decided to wear the brand for the first time just a few weeks before the designer's death in 2014. The dress was a little black number embroidered with blue and gold detailing for a cocktail party after her White House Fashion Education Workshop.
For Joe Biden's speech following his victory becoming the 46th President-Elect, Jill Biden donned an asymmetrical floral-printed crepe midi-dress by the designer. The sold-out look was paired with pink heels adorned with a large bow and a black face mask.
The current First Lady, Melania Trump, notably wore Oscar de la Renta in 2017 as she donned an emerald green dress while in the company of Queen Rania of Jordan. The number figure-hugging number featured draped detailing on the bodice and was cinched at the waist with a stylish black belt.
However, Melania's step-daughter, Ivanka Trump, and Second Lady Usha Vance, seem to be the ones continuing the fashion house's legacy with the White House.
During a candlelight dinner on Sunday night at the National Building Museum in Washington D.C., Donal Trump's daughter oozed glamor in a custom Oscar de la Renta empire-waist gown. The dress featured an off-the-shoulder neckline and was embellished with intricate crystal and pearl detailing.
For the same event, Usha also wore custom Oscar de la Renta as she donned a black velvet gown adorned with asymmetrical silver floral accents.
However, the fashion choices have caused a backlash against the luxury house on their Instagram page. One user penned: "Fascism - but make it Fashion."
Another person commented: "Always have loved. Sad to be done with [Oscar de la Renta]. I don't support brands that support fascists."
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