The Mayan Riviera

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11 DECEMBER 2003
Xcaret and Xel-Ha: wet and wild
Xcaret near Playa del Carmen is probably Mexico's answer to Disneyworld except that here, the tropical fish that fill the beautiful pools ringed by Mayan ruins are real. Most holidaymakers make a day of it, visiting the butterfly pavilion, orchid farm, museum with models of the most important Mayan sites and a wildlife breeding area. It's an eco-friendly spot; radios and non-biodegradable suntan lotions are prohibited. Near Tulum, Xel-Ha has a wonderful natural lagoon brimming with fish, and you can even swim with dolphins. Floating in inner tubes and snorkelling through beautifully lit underground caves are among other highlights.

Cancun, Playa del Carmen and Cozumel: for beach-lovers
The Caribbean laps 12 miles of pristine white sand at Cancun which, with its skyscrapers and shopping malls, is more Miami than Mexico. The resort attracts a range of holidaymakers from Tony Blair and family to package tourists. The accent is on fun, with glamorous nightlife livened up with anything from tequila and margaritas to pina coladas and coco locos.

For a more chilled scene, head 40 miles south to the palm-fringed sands of Playa del Carmen, originally a sleepy fishing village and now a low-rise lively resort full of Mexican charm. If you fancy a little more activity, go diving in Cozumel. Underwater guru Jacques Cousteau put the 24 by nine- mile island on the map when he declared its scuba diving among the world's best, and every morning an armada of boats sets sail to view the watery underworld of brilliantly coloured fish and fluorescent coral. Best for beginners is Chankanaab Bay Beach, a national park.