Pearl of the Indian Ocean

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10 MARCH 2004
Twenty years of civil war kept the paradise island of Sri Lanka off movie screens and travel itineraries. But a new ceasefire has brought both filmmakers - a Mother Teresa biopic starring Olivia Hussey was recently filmed there - and visitors back to its shores. This tropical jewel offers all the ingredients for a holiday you'll treasure forever...

Rich in natural beauty, culture, history and wildlife, it's little wonder that Sri Lanka is known as the Pearl of the Indian Ocean. Situated off the southeast coast of India, the island is so incredibly beautiful (from its palm-fringed beaches in the south to the magnificent ancient sites in the centre and picturesque tea plantations in the cool mountains of the hill country) that it's hard to imagine it has suffered a long civil war. However, a year-long ceasefire has finally restored Sri Lanka's status as a tourist destination and now is the time to go before the masses discover what independent travellers have known for years.

Historical sites
The spectacular rock fortress of Sigiriya or "Lion Rock" rises dramatically out of the jungle and was the stronghold of Prince Kasyapa after he usurped the throne in 473 AD by murdering his father. It's a long, hot climb to the top and is best attempted early in the day before the crowds arrive. Once you reach the summit, via narrow stone steps and a metal spiral staircase which clings to the side of the rock (a London Underground cast-off apparently) you'll find the remains of Kasyapasa kingdom, the King's seat and swimming pool, as well as stunning panoramic 360-degree views of the surrounding countryside.

Southwest of Sigiriya are the Dambulla caves, which date back to the first century BC. Dimly lit, stiflingly hot and overwhelmingly serene, the second of the five chambers is the most impressive, crammed with statues of Buddha and with every inch of the ceiling covered in a fresco depicting the story of his enlightenment. Further east are the remains of the ancient city of Polonnaruwa. Built more than 1,000 years ago, Polonnaruwa was home to three kings and was at its most elaborate during the 33-year reign of the Sinhalese King Parakramabahu. The city's most impressive sight is the Gal Vihara, four giant Buddhas carved from the same slab of granite.

Where to stay: There's no place like Kandalama, an eco hotel in the heartland of the cultural triangle, designed by Sri Lanka's most famous architect, Geoffrey Bawa.

Wildlife watching
Sri Lanka teems with wildlife and you don't need to go out of your way to see it. Simply driving along you're likely to spot kingfishers, herons, egrets, parakeets, kites and cormorants (and even wild elephants). But take a safari in Yala National Park, in the southeast corner of the island, and you'll not only see crocodiles, wild boar and scores of exotic birds, you'll also have a good chance of seeing leopards as the park has one of the highest densities of the big cat anywhere in the world.

Where to stay: Yala Game Lodge is situated right on the beach and is the ideal place to book your safari.