Enjoy an Indian summer

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19 MAY 2004
The sheer variety and exuberance, culture, colour and ancient monuments (to say nothing of value for money) make India one of the world's most exciting holiday destinations. Now its hotels are becoming tourist attractions in their own right.

Udaivilas, Udaipur
Udaipur is the most beautiful and romantic city in Rajasthan, the land of kings and warriors, women in vivid swirling saris, fantasy maharajah palaces and feudal codes of chivalry. It's not surprising that it is a favourite with honeymooners. The name Udaipur means "city of sunrise", but many call it "The Venice of the East". The new Udaivilas hotel affords enchanting views of the city's golden palaces, forts and temples across shimmering Lake Pichola. Although less than two years old, it has won a clutch of awards including Hotel of the Year 2003. Its cupolas topped with lapis lazuli and gold, its alcoves, frescoes, and reflecting pools, mirror the rich cultural heritage of the northwest region of India.

The bedrooms are secluded havens with courtyards and terraces affording great views out over the lake and a nature reserve where deer and wild boar seem to be watching you. Most rooms have semi-private infinity pools, but if you prefer to use one of the main pools, turbanned young attendants will immediately bring bottles of water, suncream and towels. If you're into design, you'll drool over the details; the brass fittings, crystal lamps, hand-embroidered muslins, and the Candle Room under a glass dome.

Some of India's finest handicrafts are produced in Udaipur, making it a shopper's paradise. There is a candlelit restaurant offering Indian specialities, or you can dine alfresco on the Chandri Terrace on prosciutto or pasta, Thai salad or tiramisu. Don't rush Udaivilas and Udaipur; they're very special places.

Sightseeing: Drift around on the lake on a shikara, a canopied gondola, and spot locations used in Octopussy. The City Palace is a huge complex; the present maharani lives in part of it, while the main area is preserved as a museum. The stunning Crystal Gallery even has a glass bed.